The word for today (well, last night) is "overbowed". Also "feck," and maybe "arse". So - how low to go?
Right - I admit that I MIGHT have bought a bow that is as yet little bit too high poundage. It's 35 lb.
So whilst I move up to that point ... is it best, in the meantime, to go down to 30 lb, or even lower to 25 lb? The 35 lb is OK for about five ends and then I have real trouble controlling it. I hit the curtain many times. And snapped an arrow.
Corrinne B (2020 Instructor)
17th Jun 2014 12:30
I therefore strongly suggest the bent arm technique, described here for a right handed archer [lefties just turn it around!]:
1. Nock and load the arrow as per usual.
2. Hold the arrow with your right hand as per usual [the book says two fingers under one over is best, but three under works just as well in my experience], but with your left arm bend your arm at the elbow at approx 90 degrees.
3. Then in a simultaneous, smooth motion, draw the arrow with your right arm and straighten your left. You should end up with using your back muscles more which will take a lot of the strain off your shoulders.
4. Pause for a beat, just long enough to check that your arrow is pointing in the right direction, and then release as normal.
5. If you are having trouble controlling your bow [and this is something I struggle with] don't forget to roll your shoulder in. You can either do it during the pause, or while you are straightening your bow arm.
The above is a bit tricky and requires a bit of practice but once you get the knack of it, you'll feel a lot less tired as you are using your muscles a lot more efficiently.
Hope that helps
Dan
17th Jun 2014 14:14
17th Jun 2014 14:29
One query - what is "roll[ing] your shoulder in"?
Corrinne
17th Jun 2014 14:48
The result of all this is that realign the bones and muscles in your in a nice straight line, which makes it a lot more stable.
Dan
17th Jun 2014 15:08
17th Jun 2014 15:16
I used to shoot recurve and a 36lb longbow and I've had quite a bit of advanced coaching with both. The one thing I do agree with that Dan said is to lower the shoulder (I call it lowering not rolling as I think 'rolling' can imply collapsing in whereas what we mean is to make sure that the shoulder isn't raising it should be in a strong position sitting in the joint with the flat of your arm facing forward and hand in normal position on bow). Sorry Dan but the rest of that technique sounds HORRIBLE!
Overbowed is overbowed and girls don't have the reserves of 'HUHMPH' to draw on that boys do. Corrinne, the technique for shooting a longbow / flatbow is pretty much identical as for recurve with the possible exception of not holding at full draw for as long (although there have been some very successful traditional archers who have held for 8 seconds or more - just means you need a new more bow more often). All that instinctive nonsense is IMHO nonsense (pull back, don't aim and feel the arrow), you're going to hit the curtain a lot. The problem with a bent arm technique is that most of us can't ever find the same position twice when partially bending and then partially re-extending the arm. What you want is a lighter bow - something that just stretches you but that you can fully balance. Anything other than that leads to misery and quitting.
At the peak of my fitness / strength I was pulling 34lb on a recurve and 36lb on a longbow.. once I stopped practicing 4 or 5 times a week I dropped to 30lb.. and now that I don't get to shoot very often 26lb. I have some core strength that built up to allow to to pull 26lb pretty comfortably. I now struggle with the weight of my jazzed up recurve in my bow hand - the draw is fine.. but my arm tends to sag after a few shots. Other than that low is as low as feels good. Persevering and hurtiness is not the way to happiness. It's worth £90 to go back to control and accuracy. It sucks when you keep hitting the curtain. I know from experience. Best of luck. Heidi x
17th Jun 2014 17:59
I must admit I'm tempted to spend another £90 (and by spend I mean stick on the credit card for evermore, anyway) just in the hope that it will stop me swearing my way through the next few month's sessions. I definitely don't have a lot of HUHMPH yet. Can always hang on to the 35 lb-er for future use.
Thank you both; it's great that this forum is here for advice!
Corrinne
Corrinne
17th Jun 2014 19:46
The technique I describe above was taught to me at my medieval longbow tournament, whereby the aim [so to speak!] is to shoot an arrow powerfully rather than accurately. As such I've used it to draw bows I could never draw otherwise, and the guys shooting the 140lb warbows used it [although obviously they were much better at it than me!!!]. So yes you do sacrifice accuracy but you gain in being to draw heavier bows for longer - I can shoot my longbow all day :)
Yes I do hit the curtain a lot, but I have also taken out a spider or two :) it's great when it works :) [and utterly infuriating when it doesn't :D]
Dan
17th Jun 2014 19:51
I write for a living, me ...
17th Jun 2014 19:53
17th Jun 2014 19:54
The 140 lb warbows were quite a sight in action, passing planes were in peril!
PS nowt wrong with swearing at your bow, especially in a Father Ted stylee :) small..... far away.... :)
17th Jun 2014 21:58
17th Jun 2014 22:54
Thanks Kim, too - I think I may hang on to the 35 lb for future use, but go down a few pounds in the meantime while I work on technique. I have a dodgy cubital tunnel from years ago which has been griping a bit lately so may be worth taking things a bit slowly. I definitely ain't quitting, though :)
18th Jun 2014 7:38
18th Jun 2014 11:54
I don't know how long ago you bought the bow or from where but if it was mail order then by law you have a cooling off period whereby you can return it for a full refund under the Distance Selling laws. So it may be worth returning it for a refund.
I completely agree with Heidi on the overbowed aspect. Shooting a bow that you can't comfortably hget back to full draw for a whole session is very frustrating. You're form will suffer a lot and so will your shooting and that all adds to the frustration even further.
On the point of instinctive archery I don't believe that that exists. However, 'intuitive archery' most definitely does exist and is the main method for shooting in Field Archery, where distances are unknown and elevations to the target can be high or low.
By intuitive I mean that your subconscious makes calculations based on the picture of the target and your relationship to the target. The method usually involves a split (mediterranean) hook on the string (not three under) and you draw to the side of your face, corner of you mouth. The idea is to get your eye looking straight down the shaft of the arrow towards the target. At one specific instance your arrow point will be bang on the center of the target and at others it will be either above or below the center as the trajectory needs to change to make the distance. This is the basics of gap shooting. It becomes intuitive when you are no longer consciously aware of the gap and your sub-conscious starts to do the calculations and you do actually feel the shot.
As another example, I also shoot Korean Horsebow with a thumb release method. With this method the arrow sits on the opposite side of the bow and neither the bow nor the shaft actually point directly at the target. With repetition at different distances your sub-conscious builds a list of 'gaps' that it will use for various distances. In intuitive archery you just stare intensely at the gold and allow your eyes to 'flatten' the distance (very similar to what a painter does when sketching from life). You then trust your sub-conscious by believing you will hit that point. When you miss, you don't scold yourself, you just try again and trust and believe. After practice you will hit the center repeatedly and it will feel literally magical because your conscious mind wasn't arguing with itself. The rewards of this method are incredible compared to sighted or conscious gap methods in my experience. Of all the styles of archery I shoot (sighted recurve, barebow recurve, flatbow, horsebow, english longbow, indoor and outdoor target, field archery and horeback archery) this is by far the most enjoyable method I've found (when it works :P).
18th Jun 2014 13:14
just to expand on bryns point about intuitive archery. the way you end up using intuitive archery is by learning how to gap shoot and practicing it until your body and mind work out the gaps automatically. But this usually takes between 6 months to several years and is prone to mistakes if you come across deceptive terrain. Thusly effective gap shooting is what you want to learn and you eventually get fast at it.
Bryn: - did you sell your light falco?
18th Jun 2014 15:49
18th Jun 2014 16:01
Tim, I think I've seen Roger using those bands - are they long rubber loop things?
Have ordered a 25 lb-er in the meantime. Thanks for all your input.
19th Jun 2014 12:49
19th Jun 2014 13:18
19th Jun 2014 13:20
19th Jun 2014 18:59
I can't imagine what it would be like to draw a 200lb beast like that. It would essentially be like picking up me with 3 fingers... Extraordinarily impressive :)
20th Jun 2014 10:34
[takes a bow, and refuses to answer any questions as to where the other 59 arrows ended up]
1st Jul 2014 14:27