I understood it to mean the force on your fingers at your normal drawlength. I'm currently running 22lb limbs but am pulling 24lb at 27" draw.
Anon 9th Mar 2016 17:28
Doesn't it depend on the bow length and draw length? So my understanding, which could be wildly wrong, is for example a 68" bow @ 28" draw is the pound printed on the bow. So for Rob's bow that would be 22lb on his fingers but more importantly pushing the arrow forward. If his draw length were 29" then that would be 24" and 2 pounds per inch until the bow 'stacks'. Please correct me if I'm wrong
Anon 10th Mar 2016 19:12
Bow Poundage is related to the power/strength of the limbs fitted on your bow. If you look at the underside of your limbs near the bolts you should have a little sticker with various details. That's the easy bit. Unfortunately the actual poundage that you feel on your fingers is dependent on your draw length AND the bow size (as stated by Rob S and Jol W). 28" is the standard draw length that people use when quoting the poundage of their limbs. You can get different riser sizes which will affect the poundage on your fingers. Stacking is when the limbs have compressed to a point that no matter how further back you draw the power imparted to the arrows will no get any higher. If you want to know the poundage on your fingers the best thing to do is get a bow scale (the club has them) and get it measured.
Anon 11th Mar 2016 9:42
Kim is correct but let me see if I can put it more succinctly.
For the club bows all bows have a draw weight with a bow length. This draw weight is the weight felt on the fingers at a draw length of 28" for a bow set up for the stated bow length.
Most of the club bows have two lengths and weights as there are two possible bow lengths that the bow can be made up to. (Either with a 23" riser or a 25" riser) though we always use the 25" riser for all our bows except the shortest of our bows (64") so you only need to look at the longest number.
If you draw the bow further than 28" then the bow will draw approximately 2.2# more for every inch of draw length past 28" and less by same amount for each inch less than 28". So with a club 68" bow with a listed draw weight of 18# an archer with a 27" draw length will be pulling ~15.8# on his fingers where as an archer with a 29" draw length will be pulling ~20.2# on her fingers.
Generally if you are buying your own bow you will get a 25" riser and therefore the listed weight will be correct for a 28" draw length. And assuming that you have the correct bow length for your draw then you can just add or subtract 2.2# per inch of draw length difference.
The only time you would want a different sized riser is if you are trying to make a bow 64" or less, then a 23" riser would be used. Or you are making a bow 72" or more, then a 27" riser would be used. The rule in these cases is that once you are working out the draw weight then you subtract 2# for a 27" riser or add 2# for a 23" riser.
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9th Mar 2016 17:28
10th Mar 2016 19:12
11th Mar 2016 9:42
For the club bows all bows have a draw weight with a bow length. This draw weight is the weight felt on the fingers at a draw length of 28" for a bow set up for the stated bow length.
Most of the club bows have two lengths and weights as there are two possible bow lengths that the bow can be made up to. (Either with a 23" riser or a 25" riser) though we always use the 25" riser for all our bows except the shortest of our bows (64") so you only need to look at the longest number.
If you draw the bow further than 28" then the bow will draw approximately 2.2# more for every inch of draw length past 28" and less by same amount for each inch less than 28". So with a club 68" bow with a listed draw weight of 18# an archer with a 27" draw length will be pulling ~15.8# on his fingers where as an archer with a 29" draw length will be pulling ~20.2# on her fingers.
Generally if you are buying your own bow you will get a 25" riser and therefore the listed weight will be correct for a 28" draw length. And assuming that you have the correct bow length for your draw then you can just add or subtract 2.2# per inch of draw length difference.
The only time you would want a different sized riser is if you are trying to make a bow 64" or less, then a 23" riser would be used. Or you are making a bow 72" or more, then a 27" riser would be used. The rule in these cases is that once you are working out the draw weight then you subtract 2# for a 27" riser or add 2# for a 23" riser.
Roger 2020 Archery
17th Mar 2016 6:43
7th Apr 2016 15:36