Category Archives: Articles by Club Members

Is it legal to shoot a Welshman with an arrow?

Occasionally, I let slip that I spent a decent chunk of my life living in Wales. As I teach archery, this commonly leads to the question of whether it’s legally sound to shoot a Welshman with a longbow in Chester or Herefordshire or whichever town or county the questioner can think of that borders Wales or Scotland. Occasionally, extra parameters are added: “It’s fine as long as you’re near the cathedral at midnight and you shoot exactly 12 yards”. That sort of thing.

This idea is so prevalent that even the people that run the country—or at least want to run the country—sometimes get confused. But is it actually legal?

The short answer is, somewhat obviously: no, it isn’t legal. Historic royal decrees and the wobbly process of defining a British person as legally Welsh, English or Scottish aside, murder is still murder, even when it’s perpetuated on the Welsh.

The longer answer is that it was never really a fully fledged law to begin with, and that even if it had been it’s been totally superseded. There are a few theories about how this urban myth came about, but the most likely theory seems to be somewhat ironically based around a decree written by the Prince of Wales. The Prince of Wales in 1403, that is; not the current incumbent.

It is a matter of historical record that the English and Welsh (and Scottish) have not always seen eye to eye. Despite Welsh archers being common in English armies (including during the famous so-called English victory against the French at Agincourt), loyalties to the Crown were largely dependent on what year it was and who nominally governed any given piece of land.

In the early fifteenth century, Prince Henry of Monmouth, Prince of Wales and Earl of Chester, was concerned about Welsh uprisings in and around Chester. Sir Henry ‘Hotspur’ Percy had defected to join forces with Owain Glyndŵr, who was busy causing trouble for the English throughout Wales. Percy and Glyndŵr were unhappy with the then-King Henry IV, who had usurped the throne from Richard II.

During the Battle of Shrewsbury in 1403, Percy was killed by an arrow to the face. Prince Henry was nearly done for in the same way, but he was saved and left with a permanent scar. Worried about the possibility of further defection to the Welsh cause, Prince Henry (who later became King Henry V) decreed that there should be a curfew on Welshmen in Chester:

“…all manner of Welsh persons or Welsh sympathies should be expelled from the city; that no Welshman should enter the city before sunrise or tarry in it after sunset, under pain of decapitation.”

Welshmen were required to leave their weapons at the town gates and not congregate in groups of three or more. And shooting a Welshman in Chester? Archery was never specifically mentioned in the Prince’s request, at least not that anyone seems to be able to reliably report.

A few years later in 1408, the citizens of Chester elected a Welsh mayor, John Ewloe. There were periodic troubles between Ewloe’s allies and the constable of the castle, William Venables, but these came to an end in 1411 when Venables was forced to pay reparations to certain citizens of the city. In short, Chester itself didn’t have a bone to pick with the Welsh.

In summary: don’t shoot a Welshman with an arrow, even if the person asking you to do so was born in Monmouth and is the reigning Prince of Wales.

Why are there two holes for my arrow rest?

Quick info-tel post here. I’ve been asked this question a number of times by beginner archers and I always feel like saying to them, ‘You know we’ll talk about that later.’ And somehow ‘later’ never comes.

So, the answer, of course, is that one is for you to line up your arrow rest into the correct position and the other one is for your pressure button. And what, then, is a pressure button?

The quick answer is that it is a small ‘button’, that pushes through the riser in the middle of your arrow rest which has a spring inside that can be set to be more soft or more firm in order to help fix the archer’s paradox. But, if you’re reading about the archer’s paradox for the first time that doesn’t help much. So, what’s the best way to explain it? As you release your arrow it has to bend to clear it’s way around your riser. Unlike a slingshot where you can pull back the sling and have nothing in the way between the missile and target, with a bow and arrow as you draw the string back and point the arrow at the target you’ll find that you have a riser / bow right in front of where you’re shooting.

So, the arrow needs to bend around the riser – and there are some amazing slow motion videos (especially the ones by Beiter) showing it doing just that. Without a pressure button the arrow will bend as far as it can and as far as it needs to according to how good your release is, how bendable your arrows are (the spine) and the force with which you are releasing them (the weight of the bow).

Installing a pressure button helps to achieve two things – it helps to correct the archer’s paradox (as far as possible) and it helps you to get the perfect ‘tune’ to your arrows by allowing more or less bend in the arrow shaft and it also allows you to set the ‘centre shot’ – basically the optimum position for pointing the arrow down range that will give it the most help to snake its way around the riser.

So, that is the very basic start of an answer about taking your first steps in tuning. For more information I recommend taking a look at The Archer’s Reference Guide (free although they’re grateful for donations) or, if you have a bit of cash to spend and you’re willing to go into some depth, the best book on the subject is Simon Needham’s The Art of Repetition – along with the companion DVD.

Part 1: Getting your first bow? – How do I make this decision among all the choices

What was it that got you into archery in the first place? Were you inspired by Katniss Everdeen from the Hunger Games, watching the Olympics, the competition and social environment of the club or was it something you have always wanted to do and finally came round to doing!  Whatever the reason, there comes a stage where you want to buy your first bow! The excitement and extensive choice, will make one feel like a child in a sweet store. For some it might even be overwhelming, whilst others might become a little on the hyperactive side…

To help you feel that you have a better understanding of what would work for you and complement your style, you should consider the 4 P’s:

Purpose, Progression, Price and Preference.

PURPOSE – What is my purpose and goal of shooting?

There is a big difference between what an Olympic archer would invest in and hobbyist shooting every once in a while in their backyard. There are many reasons why people learn to shoot whether it is for recreation, hunting, to competing at differing levels, from inhouse club competitions to national standards. This will have a significant influence in the style of kit you will buy and many of the features that your require in your bow.

PROGRESSION – How long do you think you will keep the bow for?
A big misconception with new archers is that they need to start with a cheap entry level bow. The reality is that you can skip this, especially if you have been learning using club or rented equipment. Bows are meant to last forever like your sturdy steed, but for different reasons archers will buy other bows. They might want to improve their performance with a more specialized bow or attain a bow that is more personalised (Neon green maybe). Therefore you might want to consider if this bow will give you the ability to progress and how long you can see yourself shooting this style of bow.

PRICE – What is my budget?

Naturally this will make a significant difference on what choices you have when purchasing your first bow. I wouldn’t advise rushing and buying the cheapest bow you can find online, as you might end up feeling ripped-off and even end up tarnishing your experience of archery.We definitely wouldn’t want that happening to you. Yet, you don’t have to burn a hole in your pocket to get a good quality and appropriate bow to fit you!

Depending on how quickly you wish to progress to a new bow (maybe even another style) you might be willing to spend less money than if you wish to invest in a single bow that you will be using for many years down the line (you might even pass it onto your kids!). Remember to include in your budget the required accessories such as arrows, quiver, fingers tabs and bracers which you will need.

Understandably, some people are often afraid to spend a lot of money on a bow, when they are not confident that they will stay with the sport or be cash strapped. A way to cut costs is by going second hand or ebay (see our earlier blog on: www.2020archery.co.uk/blog/should-i-buy-second-hand-archery-gear/ ), but be careful, do your research and ask club members or instructors for advice if you are unsure. Yet the more confident you are with your commitment, the more you will save in the long term with better equipment, as you will begin to develop and grow into a better bow sooner.

PREFERENCE – Is there a particular style you wish to shoot?

Archery has a spectrum of styles and there’s nothing wrong opting for a traditional bow than for a snazzy Olympic recurve. It is important you buy the style of bow you want to use, because at the end of the day you will be shooting it. The bow must feel right from both an aesthetic perspective ( yes that is important many people might not want to shoot a neon green bow) to the functionality for your chosen style of shooting.

Before you click the “buy it now“  button it is important that you consider the above categories and have done your research. The internet is an amazing source of information and so are our club members, instructors and local archery stores (We recommend **** in London). Please remember to check your clubs rules and regulations,before purchasing your bow, as there will be specific guideline on draw weight, types of arrows etc…. that are allowed to be shot.  If you have done your research and are confident about which bow you want, then what are you waiting for!

Janissaries Archers

The protectors of the Sultan
The Janissaries archers were elite infantry units created by sultan Murad I, the first sultan of the Ottoman empire, in 1383.

Murad I

They began as an elite corps of slaves recruited from young Christian boys from the Balkans and Anatolian through the devşirme system, abolished in 1638. Turkish children nor Jews were never subject to devşirme. Later on, the Janissaries could enrol their own children in the corps after the devşirme system was abolished by sultan Murad III.

They wore unique uniforms, were paid, marched to music, lived in barracks and were the first corps to make extensive use of fire arms. During the initial period of formation, Janissaries were expert archers, but they began adopting firearms as soon as they became available during the 1440s. They also served as policemen, palace guards and fire fighters in peace time.

Recruitment
After a non-muslim boy was recruited, he was sent to selected Turkish families to learn how to speak Turkish, the rules of Islam and the customs and cultures of Ottoman society. After this, boys were trained in Enderun school at the capital city. They were selected for their talents in different areas to train as engineers, artisans, riflemen, clerics, archers, artillery, etc. They trained under strict discipline and in practically monastic conditions. Unlike other muslims, they were expressly forbidden to wear beards, only a moustache.
For all practical purposes, Janissaries belonged to the sultan and they were regarded as the protectors of the throne and the sultan. They were taught to consider the corps their family and the sultan their father.

janissaries

The corps
The corps was organised in ortas (equivalent to a battalion). While the sultan was the supreme commander of the Ottoman army and of the Jannissaries in particular, the corps was organised and led by a commander. The corps was divided into 3 sub-corps:
– The cemaat, frontier troops with 101 ortas.
– The beyliks or beulukus, the sultan’s own bodyguard with 61 ortas.
– The sekban or seirnen, with 34 ortas.

The ottoman empire used the Janissaries in most of its campaigns, including the capture of Constantinople, the defeat of the Egyptian Mamluks and war against Hungary and Austria. They were always led to battle by the sultan and had a share of the loot. In battle, their mission was to protect the sultan.

The corps was abolished in 1826 by sultan Mahmud II. The main reason for their decline seemed to be a decrease in discipline as they’d grown accustomed to a civilian life.

 

How to make a basic longbow from scratch

Common wood used to make bows:
– Red Oak
– Yew
– Ash
– Bamboo
– Osage
– Ipe
– Black Locust

To make a longbow, our best options is yew. Although it is quite expensive is ideal for longbows.

The #1 rule when making any bow, is not to use power tools. This slows down the process a bit, but makes it more difficult to make fatal mistakes.

Common tools used to make bows:
– Draw knife
– Spoke shave
– Cabinet scrapers
– Fine wood file
– Sandpapers

The first thing we need to do is the initial shaping of the bow. We have bought a piece of wood which doesn’t look like a bow at all. Most of the wood will need to be removed and it will be done in this initial shaping stage.
Once you’ve removed around 2lb of wood, you’ll need to draw a central line and the rough outline of the bow as a guide.
The main characteristic of this stage is that, at the end of it, you will be able to see the shape of the bow but the wood would be still too thick to bend.
Now it’s time to shape the longbow. Work from the centre towards the tips. Define the D shaped cross section. Define the cuts for the bowstring to fit in and define the handling area.
The only thing remaining is to check the draw length which should be 28″ as standard.
To know your draw length, you have to put your arms away in the shape of a “T”. One person has to measure from middle finger on the right hand to the middle finger on the left hand. Divide the resulting number by 2.5 to know your draw length.

Here are a couple of extended guides on how to make your own longbow:
– http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-layered-oak-bow-or-How-NOT-to-make-/?ALLSTEPS
– http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-red-oak-bow-start-to-finish/

– http://poorfolkbows.com/oak.htm

– http://www.greenmanlongbows.co.uk/

What is a World Record Status Shoot?

It must have a National Judge in charge. In the UK the shoot will have been registered with Archery GB. The tournament details are published in Archery UK.

 

You need to shoot at World Record Status shoots in order to gain a ranking. You can see worldwide rankings on the World Archery website here.

 

https://worldarchery.org/world-ranking

 

It is a goal for many people to feature on the Target Archery Rankings for Archery GB. There is a link to the annual rankings on their website here :

http://www.archerygb.org/7499.php

 

Rankings are determined via points and for ‘recurve archers, the points represent each archer’s best two ladies/gents WA 1440 rounds and best three WA 70m rounds all from shoots with World or UK Record Status; in addition recurve archers are required to shoot an associated Olympic round but the score is not included in the total.

For barebow and longbow archers, the points represent each archer’s best two ladies/gents WA 1440 rounds and best three WA 70m rounds all from shoots with World or UK Record Status.’

 

As long as you complete this requirement you WILL get a national ranking – which is obviously exciting! In 2016 ladies recurve placed down to position 124. Ladies longbow placed down to 26. Gents recurve placed to position 204 and Gents Barebow to position 18.

What weight bow is needed to shoot 70m?

Well, there are lots of things to take into consideration – you should shoot the highest poundage that you can comfortably control. There is some evidence that you could go as low as around the 30lb mark depending on the following points (see next paragraphs). In my experience most people will be shooting around 36lb+.

 

In addition to increasing your limb weight (which might involve a few trips to the gym but will definitely involve a lot of practicing with your set up) there are a lot of additional things that you can do to help yourself gain the maximum possible shooting distance for the lowest poundage of limbs. It is easier to shoot more efficient limbs so you may be able to control more weight with less exertion if you spend a bit more money (OK maybe quite a lot more money). For example Border limbs explain it thus, “At Border we offer a synthetic composite core and is denoted by an H in the HEX6.5 (discontinued) and HEX6.6 model series. This offers approximately 4fps to 8fps more arrow speed than their multi-laminated bamboo/wood equivalent. This difference is roughly equivalent to 1lb to 1.5lbs of bow weight performance… the choice of core will not affect the draw-force curve at all, the draw-feel will remain the same irrespective to the core material chosen.”

 

http://www.borderbows.com/ilf-limbs-by-core-c88.html

 

 

Arrows also make a huge difference – the faster and lighter the arrow the further it will easily and accurately go. You want the best spin wings, curly vanes, G nocks and something made out of carbon (you won’t be shooting Jazz arrows at 70m).

 

Spend a lot of time tuning your bow (we still like the Simon Needham book ‘Steps to Success’ for this). You want the most efficient string (e.g. fast flight) and you’ll want some Beiter nock points.

The day I spent building a longbow

Longbows are, at least for a British archer, the ultimate type of bow. Robin Hood, if you ignore the latest cinematic flop, shot an English longbow. The English army won at Agincourt with longbows shot by both English and Welsh archers. The English longbow is the reason that yew trees almost became extinct in Europe in the 16th century. Longbows are as synonymous with the history of Great Britain as the royal family, bowler hats, and arguments about Marmite.

Back when I primarily shot a recurve bow, I always said I would get a longbow when I scored 550 out of 600 on a full 60-arrow Portsmouth round. I’ve held a personal best of 549 for a couple of years, and the fact that I mainly shoot an American flatbow these days means I’m very unlikely to beat that. If I can’t reach my target for buying a longbow, I figured I’d just have to build one.

Sadly, I have the carpentry skills of a lump of wood. I sought out a proper longbow making workshop.

Finding a course

These days, longbows aren’t cheap: buying new, they start at around £200 for a very basic model and rapidly go up to £500+. Paying more doesn’t get you any particular advancement—this is a longbow, after all, not a fancy compound bow—but you do get a longbow made with better materials and with fancier nocks, crafted by bowyers clothed in original sheepskin who meditate in caves overlooking the sea.

Courses to build longbows, meanwhile, also hover at around the £300 mark. The courses themselves vary: some are single days, some are full weekends in a group where you camp and craft arrows for your bow. I opted to see Will Lord, an expert in prehistoric survival skills. His workshop lasts a single day and is taught one-to-one. He used to teach groups, he told me, but you end up with people fighting over the equipment and it’s all much less personal.

I visited Will at his home in Suffolk; a beautiful cottage near Bury St Edmonds. We’d exchanged a few emails prior to meeting up, and I’d let him know that I was looking to build a bow with a draw weight in the region of 35 to 40 pounds. This let him construct the initial stave with layers of hickory, purpleheart and lemon wood. After that, though, I’d be doing most of the work.

Building the bow

First up, shaping the limbs. Will had me using a wooden spokeshave, a form of plane originally used to round off wagon wheel spokes and later adopted by shipbuilders, to shape the rectangular cross section of the stave down into the classic curved D shape. He admits that this is not the most traditional method of shaping bow limbs, but it allows the bowyer to attune to and communicate with the wood. In my case, that communication mostly began as an argument, but under Will’s guidance I slowly improved. As the limbs take their required form, they are finely smoothed with sandpaper and—eventually—wire wool.

Once I’d mostly convinced the stave to be the right shape, we attached a premade bowstring and tested the draw weight. This is largely defined by the thickness of the purpleheart core and the lemon wood belly. We drew the bow to 35 pounds: perfect. Shortening the bow might raise the poundage, but we kept it full length at around 6 feet 7 inches: larger than the average and possibly a future cause of awkward journeys on the London Underground, but it looks perfect. We sharpened the points of the stave and attached blocks of water buffalo horn to both ends to form the string nocks. While the glue dried, we moseyed off to make a string of my own.

Making a bowstring involves effectively plaiting the ends of 2 separate strings together, with each of those strings being made up of 6 or 7 threads. I chose a mix of red and black threads; Will demonstrated the braiding technique on one end and I followed suit on the other, before handing back to him to tie it all off. A few twists in the bowstring and we were done.

When the buffalo horns were properly glued onto the bow stave, we then sanded them down to curved nocks. Truthfully, my only major crisis of the day was over-sanding the nock on the bottom bow limb, cutting into the wood that I’d so carefully pared down earlier. Will masterfully fixed most of the issue with his pocket knife, leaving me the relatively easy task of smoothing the wood again so that the mistake was practically invisible, although the nock on the bottom limb of the bow is now smaller than the nock on the top limb. If nothing else, it’s easy to see which end of the bow should point towards the ground.

The final touches

A final sand down of the stave and a coat of wax added a shine to the bow, and then we were on the final stage: building the grip. Will attached a thin piece of wood to thicken the middle of the bow, and then we cut a piece of leather to size for the grip itself. We used an awl to poke holes in the leather and stitched the grip into place, before hammering out and attaching 2 red circles of leather to decorate each end.

Bow complete. I took a few test shots outside in the field behind Will’s house, which allowed me to bask in the glory of shooting the bow I’d built and gave Will the opportunity to up-sell his arrow making course, where participants learn to forge their arrow heads from scratch. At some point, I will be going back.

The day was brilliant. Will is a patient teacher who has a comprehensive knowledge of his subject matter, and who will always step in the moment you have any difficulties. The bow I built is by no means perfect, but I built it and named it (I’ve never thought to name either of my other bows, but this longbow is “Suzy”) and so it will always have a special quality that all the money in the world could not buy. It shoots just as well as any shop-bought longbow you might buy for a similar price. If you’re in the market for a longbow, this might be one of the best and most satisfying ways of acquiring one.

Visit Will Lord’s website for more information about his longbow workshops and the multitude of other courses he teaches.

Our club is the ideal place to shoot a longbow, or indeed almost any other type of bow! Find out more here.

Why do some archers shoot with a tab not a glove?

Your hands are one of the most important elements in archery. They are the crucial connection between archer and bow. Correct hand positioning can be the difference between hitting the golden ten… or the neighbouring target. Your hands and fingers as an archer are arguably your most important asset (and indeed in life!). It is therefore essential that one wears protection to prevent any blisters, numbness and nerve damage, whilst also aiding your string release and performance as far as possible. Therefore every archer, whether Olympic gold medallist or novice, will need to work out some finger protection. But how do you choose from the multitude of styles available?

One of the deciding factors which will help with this decision, is determining the style of archery you wish to pursue. When shooting a traditional style bow, gloves are inherently more advantageous. They provide superb protection through reinforced fingertips (particularly helpful for bows with a heavy draw weight) and as gloves tend to be made out of thick leather, they therefore provide product longevity. For practicality purposes, gloves give the archer the ability to be “hands-free” to do other things, such as, retrieve arrows (or rearrange their Robin Hood hats). Many traditional archers not only feel that it synchronizes with their style of going “old school”, but that there is a more intuitive, natural release when shooting with a glove.

That said, the most common finger protection among archers is the finger tab. Modern Olympic-style shooters will find the tab the most universal piece of equipment. A basic finger tab is simply a piece of leather with a retaining loop or holes to keep the tab in position. More upgraded versions might have a platform, plate and/or a spacer. Although from the perspective of protecting your fingers tabs may be thinner than gloves, this does give the archer more sensitivity allowing them to innately fine tune and reflect on their release. Importantly, tabs provide a smoother release by having a lower friction surface, ensuring the least interference with your arrows. Many tab designs, such as the shelf tab, will further ensure this by stopping the archer from pinching the arrow (which is what makes for that frustrating arrow swing whilst drawing back). Many archers also find that their shooting becomes more accurate when using a shelf tab as it allows them to anchor the string better with their fingers.

All in all, gloves and fingers tabs basically do the same thing, with subtle differences. Gloves and tab products have a range of price points, they aren’t an expensive investment and they are usually one of the first pieces of equipment a beginner archer will buy. Although the style of archery tends to inform the style of finger protection, there is no reason why an archer cannot shoot a traditional bow with a tab or an Olympic-style recurve with a glove. Archery is very personal and therefore it is important that you ask yourself, which elements resonate with you. Consider the following criteria when choosing: protection, sensitivity, smoothness of release and practicality.

And finally as with everything else in archery we tend to teach what works best for the majority of people. There’s a reason that no-one has ever won an Olympic gold medal shooting a freestyle recurve with a lovely tooled leather glove. Conversely if you shoot a hunting style American flatbow you’re going to pick up somewhat strange looks if you’re rocking a Cavalier Elite Cordovan top of the range shelf tab while trying to master your instinctive ‘at one with the arrow’ shooting style.

Finger Tab

Archery Glove

 

If you want to be a record breaker …

On 5 September 2015, Hamish Murray of Swindon, UK, shot 10 arrows into a 40 cm target, from an 18m distance, in just 1 minute and 0.5 second. With a 62 lb longbow. And he was just 17 at the time.

If your reaction to that is less “Ooof” and more “Guard my beverage”, then there’s nothing stopping you from having a go yourself. Murray currently holds the Guinness World Records (GWR) title for “Fastest time to shoot 10 arrows”, which is just one of a whole host of archery titles that GWR monitor.

Other current titles include “Farthest accurate distance (men’s archery)” for which the challenger must shoot an arrow into any scoring ring of a 120cm World Archery target. Which might sound reasonably do-able, until you consider that the current record stands at 283.47 m (930.04 ft). It’s held by US Paralympic legend Matt Stutzman, AKA the @ArmlessArcher, who, as his bio says, does everything with his feet. You might not want to put that beer down just yet. Another archer with proper foot skills is American Nancy Siefker who, standing on her hands and holding the bow with her left foot, shot an arrow into a scoring ring of a 5.5 cm target from a distance of 6.09 m (20 ft). If you fancy having a go at this, be reassured that the rules allow for a larger target than the one Nancy chose – anything up to 12 cm is allowed. Easy.

But in all seriousness, if you’re willing to put in the work you could be in with a shot (yes, I know) at one of the other records. Certain club members – and at this point the Wednesday evening crowd come, unbidden, to mind – might fancy their chances at this one: “Most balloons burst simultaneously by arrows.” The current holder, American Randy Oitker, loaded multiple arrows onto his bow and with this lethal cluster managed to burst seven balloons, pinned to a target, at the same time.

If endurance is your thing, there’s a record for the “Longest archery marathon”. This is pretty much what it sounds like: the longest time to continuously shoot arrows under World Archery conditions (with designated rest breaks allowed, so you can take care of requisite business). That record currently stands at 30 hours and 16 minutes, and is held by Dutch amateur archer Ton van Eekeren. Those who prefer outdoor shooting might like to consider the as-yet unclaimed title for “Highest archery score in 24 hours under World Archery outdoor conditions”.

Another, rather intriguing, record category also currently stands unfilled: “Most bottle caps removed using a bow and arrow in one minute”. That’s pretty much what it sounds like: the most crown cap bottles opened using a bow and arrow in one minute. Anyone taking home that title will not, in all likelihood, have to buy a beer for a very long time.

If none of the above records (and there are a few more on the website) sound like your thing, the GWR team are open to suggestions for new record categories. There are a few criteria to bear in mind if you want to propose a new category, though. One of these is that your proposed record must be based on a “single superlative” – so you could go for farthest, highest, fastest or most, but not a combination of these (so no “Farthest accurate shot whilst doing the loudest burp”, for example). Another important one is that the activity can’t be too niche: it’s got to be something that is currently subject to, or is likely to provoke, international competition. As impressive as it is, no-one is going to accept your suggestion of “Most zombie hostage targets hit by a vaguely hungover South London archer in 30 seconds (female)”.

You can also request that a record be split by gender, if there is justification for this. There’s no reason why women and men shouldn’t compete with each other for “Most balloons burst simultaneously by arrows”, but you could argue that “Heaviest longbow draw weight” – a record which, at 200lb, has remained in the arms of the UK’s Mark Stretton since 2004 could be split into female and male categories.

If you feel like having a go any of these records, you can fill in a short online form on the GWR website. Then, the records management team will send you the guidelines – basically, what conditions must be fulfilled and the quality of evidence they’ll need to see to evaluate your claim. Record verification is taken very seriously by GWR – the majority of archery records listed above must be undertaken using unmodified, World Archery-recognised equipment in the presence of independent expert witnesses registered with either Archery GB or the equivalent nationally-recognised governing body. By “independent”, GWR mean that the witness can’t have any personal investment in the outcome, so you can’t ask the club to do it.

But we will claim it was our training that got you there. Naturally…